Greetings from Bologna, Italy.
We will have to research the connections between the name of this town and a certain luncheon meat notably sold in the states by a guy who sings and drives a weiner-mobile. Someone with time on their hands, please get on that right away won’t you? We are doing our own research by stuffing our faces with other delicious local deli meats (and cheeses).
Our hotel, the Art Hotel Commercianti, (one of four Bologna Art Hotels) is quite charming. It’s tucked down a small street just off the main square and our balcony looks out onto the Cathedral. (So…pigeons, but you take the bad with the good, no?)
The desk clerk recommended the Trattoria da Gianni (Via Clavature 18, Bologna) – a five minute walk from the hotel and Holy Mary, Mother of God, now I remember why Italy is the food capital of the world. (Not France, imho. I’ve eaten some pretty tasteless merde in France whereas in Italy even the ubiquitous ham and cheese sammies taste like something made in heaven. (Must be the bread. And the cheese. And the ham. Which they don’t allow you to take into the states so I’m pretty seriously considering a short risky career in meat smuggling some time very soon.)
In keeping with today’s theme, (which somehow seems to be all things meat)…last night I ate a tagliatelle with Bolognese sauce that made me swoon. How can such simple fare be so delicious? This is what Bolognese sauce is supposed to taste like! Of course they make the pasta fresh, too. That certainly doesn’t hurt a meal. And, then there was that fabuloso Riserva that came recommended by Michele, the owner. You do have to hand it to the Italians, they are so understated. The man pours a glass of liquid red perfection and then he just steps back, smiles a sweet, suave smile as if to say, “Yes, I know, our little local vino just knocked your freaking American sox off, didn’t it?” And, it truly did. We kept it healthy towards the end with a bowl of fresh cut fruit (the word “salad” is inadequate here) and a small unexpected little cheat, a complimentary shot of Limoncello (Gracie, Diego!).
So if you ever get to Bologna, and surprisingly I kind of recommend that you make that happen -who knew? – we were just considering it a necessary stop to get to San Marino. I DO NOT CARE what the Lonely Planet says, go to Trattoria da Gianni for dinner. You will thank me. Service=spectacular, and you know how sometimes in Italy that just isn’t so. Food=wonderful local traditional meals (see above). And, a great ambience and good value mean you won’t be hearing any English at the next table over and you won’t need to negotiate the sale of your first born child to pay the mortgage when you get home.
Next desto, San Marino, an entirely independent nation state that NEVER WAS PART OF ITALY, DAMN IT! As always, we wish you were here.