Dateline Naples, Italy.
I don’t know when Pablo discovered Anthony Bourdain or when exactly they became BFFs, but I do know that when Anthony suggested to Pablo that the best, the most delicious, the most “authentic” pizza was made ONLY in Naples, Italy, we would be making a little detour to check it out sooner rather than later.
To be fair, poor Pablo, (a native New Yorker), has been living, deprived of New York pizza (the only “really good pizza”) for many long decades. (His Mama, may she rest in peace, used to bring him a slice or two when she flew out to visit, but we can all agree that pizza 6 hours cold ain’t no pizza worth eating, really.)
So, a while back Anthony B. went to Naples on his cable show and swooned (literally swooned) over the pies made there. Ever the pessimist, I had doubts. (Just as the buxom naked beauties of the Yesterhavkamp sauna were not in place as advertised in that glossy brochure in our hotel in Denmark a few years ago – note: not only no naked blonde beauties, but NO DAMN SAUNA – I was pretty sure that the glorious pizzas out of the famed wood fire ovens in Naples were sure to be of some disappointment.)
I’m willing to admit when I am wrong.
The pizza in Naples is the best pizza in the world. And, in my book, Naples, Italy is well worth visiting. The locals are delightful. They are loyal and fiercely proud of their city. Oh, they are well aware of the world-wide reputation they have for dubious garbage collection practices, but just you try to take a photo of an overflowing garbage can on any street and see what happens. (Pablo had his American ass handed to him a couple of times.)
They also know that everybody in the world believes their cab drivers are shady. (Maybe for good reason, though.) We had just enough time in Naples for two pizzas and three taxi rides. We probably got ripped off once. (The cab ride from the airport to the hotel cost more than twice what the same ride cost a day later. BFD. So, Guido saw us coming. “Let it goooooo, let it gooooo…”
Pizza #1: We took the long walk from our hotel down the beach front strand amid the Sunday afternoon parade that IS Naples. This is the meaning of the word, “promenade”. Our desto was Lievito Madre al Mare, a new-ish pizza place right on the beach front opened by popular demand by Gino Sorbillo, one of Naples’ most famous pizza makers. Gino’s original pie shop in Naples was on top of the list of the “10 best pizzas in Naples” so that was definitely going to be one of our pizzas.
We arrived about two hours before the dinner pizzas were rolled out so we took a little walk and then sat and enjoyed the view over some Pelligrino. The staff are super nice, and when they found out that we were in Naples JUST for the day to eat one of THEIR pizzas…they ran in the back to get the RED CARPET. (Metaphorically speaking.) The boss came out and introduced us to his whole family. Before too long the place was completely filled up and our fondest pizza fantasies were realized.
It started to rain on us and our nearest neighbors literally pulled our table under their umbrella and invited us to join them. We chit chatted about Naples, pizza, boats, (they have one) and flying to get places you want to go. (Thea yes, Elio no.) Thea is a great example of the typical Neapolitan; she LOVES her city, has lived there her entire life and wouldn’t dream of living anywhere else, but she is exceedingly well traveled. (Kind of unusual for most Italians.) I was so glad it started to rain.
The next morning we struck out to visit the “old city” briefly before heading to the airport. Half way there we were drawn to an “event” setting up on the main street. By a strange and magical co-incidence, Desto3 had managed to arrive in Naples on the very same day that the “pizza festival” was taking place! Forty two restaurants from all over Naples were represented at the four day event and the principle organizer was LA’s very own ambassador of pizza who came out to shake our hands and welcome us to Naples on behalf of the Associazone Verace Pizza Naploetana. You wouldn’t think that pizza needs promotion, but, hey, if it’s going to be done, where better than the home of the greatest pizza in the world? (Check out the website www.pizzanapoletana.org for info about pizza worldwide.)
In conclusion, is Naples a safe city? Some say no. Others say that Naples is no more dangerous than any other large metropolitan area in any other country in the world. (Consulting WHO statistics, you’re more likely to get victimized as a tourist in my home town, LA.) I say, keep your wits about you. Don’t stray into areas that seem sketchy. Don’t flash wads of cash on the street. And leave your passport and important papers in the safe in your room. Just like you would do in any other big city in the world.
Ciao!
