The independent nation known as The Bahamas (only one of two countries in the world that get to use the “The” that way – please don’t read that out loud if you have a lisp) was the last Caribbean country on our list. I wish I could say we saved the best for last, but unless your idea of tropical perfection includes Vegas style high rises and casinos, albeit very nice ones, and posh, too, well, you might agree with us that The Bahamas, especially Paradise Island, just over the bridge from Nassau, is way over-developed. Yes, the hotels are magnificent and the beaches are spectacular and the people staffing them are extremely well trained and professional. So, what’s my beef? It’s just kind of not very exotic, if you know what I mean.
Don’t get me wrong. It’s a fabulous location for a wedding, and that’s exactly why we were there (for 4 days of uninterrupted celebration of the marriage of two beloved youngsters), and I guess if you are trying to keep 140 wedding guests happy and entertained it’s exactly the thing you want. For my tastes, it’s just too, too perfect. I guess this is a sign that I’m getting cranky in my dotage. Complaining about perfection. So be it.
The Bahamas became an independent country (of some 700+islands) on July 10, 1973. Before that it was part of the British Commonwealth. So it turns out, the Bahamians threw off the yolk of British colonialism only to be over-taken by hotel developers from New Jersey. What were they thinking? Well, according to at least one of our taxi drivers, they were thinking of the $$$$$$. Same old story: “…pave paradise and put up a parking lot…” Cue Joni Mitchell.
If you only ever go to Nassau and then over to Paradise Island you will agree with me that something gets lost when you groom every square centimeter of a tiny island within an inch of its life (I know, that’s a very tricky conversion. Math and measures ain’t my thang.)
Nassau town itself is still kind of quaint and picturesque and “raw-ish” in an original kind of raw, but once you cross the bridge to Paradise Island, you might as well be in Vegas or (horrors!) Atlantic City. You will have to head back over to Nassau via the other bridge if you want any kind of local color and that will be most likely found in the district along the beach known as “the fish fry” where you will partake of authentic Bahamian cuisine and likely drink too many over-priced rum drinks. (Isn’t that what you go to the Caribbean for? Oh, and friendly Desto3 Traveler’s Tip: The cost of alcoholic libations over on the island is dear, so if you need to be frugal, pick up a few bottles of whatever in Nassau before you cross the bridge to save a few bar tab bucks.)
The fish fry in Nassau town was originally just a few shacks put up where the local fishermen haul in the day’s catch. These days some nice-ish restaurants dominate the tourism trade. We went with a party of 20+ and they handled our big table with the aplomb of the finest restaurants. The food was decent, too. (Get the mahi mahi if it’s on the menu.)
From Nassau you can take a small plane over to Eleuthera and then hop on a water taxi to Harbour Island. Now we’re talking my kind of “paradise” island. Pink sand beaches and crystalline blue waters. If you want transportation you have to rent a golf cart (about $US60 per day) and you will need it if you want to bop around on the island and get away from your resort. There are taxis but they are not tremendously reliable and they can be pricey. The taxi drivers are probably somebody’s brother in law with a running car. He may have to move some things around to make room for the passengers and there’s no meter. It’s a kind of original Uber minus any kind of reasonable standards of hygiene or safety. But, local color galore.
We would heartily recommend the Pink Sands Resort, a 5 minute taxi ride from the Government Dock where the water taxi drops you. They will arrange to have a golf cart brought directly to your cottage. No request is too extreme and the personnel is beyond world class. Your “room” is really a well appointed cottage with a private deck and virtually invisible to any other guests.
The sand on that beach is not to be believed. Like sifted, pink-hued flour. The restaurant and bar (excellent fare, btw and a righteous bar menu with good wines and nightly entertainment) are right on the beach and below it is the “beach shack” where all the water sports equipment resides until you need it. (Kayaks, paddle boards, snorkeling gear, etc. all included in your package.)
You can walk down the shore to a few other hotels and their restaurants and there are several really excellent ones in town (need the cart for this). Do NOT leave the island without at least one meal at Queen Conch.
This is a laid back vacation spot. Remember your mosquito repellant and your eReader and go with people who don’t need a lot of “high stim” activities. You’re welcome.
Although Desto3 rarely makes a recommendation for specific travel pros, on this trip we would make an exception. We consulted Laura Sangster, Vacation Maker from The Journey Group for all our needs on this trip coordinating all the reservations for 4 people from two different locations. Everything was flawless and every recommendation was superb. Don’t go to the Caribbean without contacting her. It’s her specialty and she knows her stuff. (Desto3 was not compensated for this endorsement. We were just hugely impressed with Laura’s knack for the region and her stellar work to make some difficult (read high maintenance customers) logistics work out well. Credit where it’s due and it’s due here.
