I can’t count the number of times I’ve been to Mexico. Mexico was my first, (in 1970) and as of last week, my last, foreign desto as a matter of fact. I talk to people all the time now who say they’re afraid to go to Mexico and I always think (but don’t say), “What are you afraid of, really great cheap Mexican food? Glorious, untrammeled beaches? Excellent designer tequilas? Fabulous shopping adventures? Spectacularly helpful and friendly locals?”
Upon closer investigation of their fears it’s almost a given. These people are afraid period. Ninety nine percent of them don’t even have passports which is shocking to me, especially here in San Diego. How can you not have a passport when you live minutes away from a foreign country? So, they CAN’T go to Mexico now because, as of a couple years ago, you cannot cross the border with just a drivers license; you have to be in possession of a passport to get back in to the US. How sad and limiting to willfully deny yourself the glories of foreign travel! Then again, there’s always the Travel Channel and if you’re a ‘fraidy-cat-couch potato, there you go, fire up the Samsung flat screen (or the old Trinitron if you still have one, and I wouldn’t be a bit surprised if you do) and “go” abroad. The rest of us will be down in Rosarito Beach where your Desto3 team was last weekend courtesy of our neighbors in San Diego who own a condo ON THE BEACH down there. Tell THEM you’re afraid of Mexico and watch them split their sides laughing. They go down every single week, from Friday to Sunday. For all of the above plus a resort condo with amenities that are beyond 5 stars and $45 massages including tip.
Yes, there are travel warnings. You won’t want to sashay into one of the rural Mexican states down in the interior looking all gringo and dumb for instance, but then again, have you checked the murder rates and mass shooting data in the good old US of A lately? Don’t do it. If you’re a ‘fraidy-cat, you’ll never leave your casa again. My point is, there’s death and mayhem lurking EVERYWHERE. Just don’t be a dumbass or a jerk and you’ll be plenty safe and have a great time. Enough said about the undeserved fear and loathing of our neighbors to the south (credit Hunter S. Thompson), you didn’t come here for a lecture on your travel phobias and my derisive comments about paranoid geezers. You came here for hardcore travel info.
Here it is: it will take you roughly 35-40 minutes to get to the US-Mexico border from north county, San Diego. On a Friday night, expect traffic. A significant number of clever US citizens who work in San Diego now live across the border in Tijuana because it’s so much cheaper. For the most part this seems to be a phenomenon of the young people who are still working, but on the other end of the age spectrum you’ll see a whole lot of older people making the weekend migration down to their digs in Rosarito. Our neighbors who do this every week have owned down there for more than three years and that’s a lot of border crossings. Rosarito is another 30-40 minutes south of Tijuana but with the new bypass it’s quick and you don’t have to go through the town of Tijuana (unless you want to). There’s a bunch of construction going on in Rosarito Beach and I’d say that it’s about 50-50, U.S. expats and Mexican nationals building both luxury condos and private, individual haciendas — some of them spectacular in both size and grandeur.
Honestly, if I had an extra half mil laying around, I’d consider it myself and let all my friends go down whenever they felt the urge. I know some surfers (offspring) who would fight you for it. (Note to self: buy that lotto ticket!)
But, what’s there to do down there in Rosarito Beach if you don’t surf? Well, I’m glad you asked. We spent a whole day in the luscious Valle de Guadalupe wine country – I know – yes, Mabel, there’s a wine country down in Mexico and it was like visiting the Napa Valley back in the way way back when the roads were unpaved and the housing tracts didn’t exist yet. In other words, rustic, quaint, and oh, so special. The vineyards of Via de Guadalupe are just as meticulous, the wineries themselves (we went to four) served up a variety of tapas and tastings, enough to put Sonoma to shame, and the personnel were savvy and gracious and absolutely NO pressure. And, no attitude. It was refreshingly untainted. And, if you want to know where all the bees are…they’re in Mexico. The non aggressive variety. We made a truce and snacked on good things to eat while the bees swarmed our jam pots.
While I cannot speak to a night life down in Rosarito, we had a lovely dinner at a nearby spot that rivaled any posh eatery in San Diego and for about half the price. Down the road and across the street there were several clubs blasting techno but we did not venture inside. “Chicas Malas” will have to carry on without my patronage and I’m pretty certain they’re as good with that decision as I am. Nobody wants a gray haired chubby granny climbing up the pole. Are you feeling me? We went back to the condo for a few rollicking games of Rummycube. (Eat your heart out, J-Lo et al.)
Our second whole day in Mexico we did a little early Christmas shopping. Of course you’ve got the usual Rue de Crapola merch but you can also find some bargains on finely painted ceramics and tiles and pottery. A surprising number of local artisans will craft custom orders in jewelry, glassware, etc., too. While you watch if you care to do so. Pablo got a massage at a very nice massage spa, clean, beautiful and professional for half what he pays in the states while I picked up a few trinkets and practiced my dusty college Spanish. As per usual, the locals are happy to help with language needs and everybody in Mexico speaks excellent English. Before going home we stopped in Puerto Nuevo for a lobster dinner. It was about $US180 for 6 lobsters + fresh made tortillas, rice, beans, guacamole and margaritas. The very best lobster I’ve had in many years. It’s what Puerto Nuevo is there for. Dozens of lobster restaurants. If you want my personal recommendation shoot me an email via the site. I don’t want word to get out because the wait is long enough! Seems everybody in Rosarito knows where the very “mejor” lobster is. And, our friends are thusly informed so we had a little wait in line but it was well worth it.
All in all I can tell you that everywhere we went we felt safe and welcome and valued as tourists. Baja is not your grandpa’s Mexico no mo. Dig out your passport or get one and head to our neighbors in the south for a delightful slice of easy international travel. Note: Each hombre or mujer can bring back only 2 bottles of spirits so pick wisely. If you like sipping tequila you will want to put your money there. The wines are good, really good, but you can get equal quality at home for around the same price. It’s all about the tequila when you are importing. And, if you drive across the border we highly recommend getting a Global Entry pass. You’ll fly through the special line with barely a polite look-see while the plebian tourists can wait in border re-entry lines for hours and even have their vehicles searched before crossing.
Bueno! Está todo! Hasta luego, amigos!
